Pasola

Sumba is part of as an lesser Sunda island group. The group is renowned for numerous astonishing features including its volcanoes and the giant lizards or "dragons" of Komodo. Little is known of the Sumbanese people other than by reputation as head hunters, warriors and slave traders. The few travellers who venture east far beyond Bali to Sumba encounter spectacular traditional villages comprising towering thatched roof peaked houses and megalithic grave sites. Everywhere one looks, there are powerful reminders of the bond between the sumbanese and their ancestors.

Religious rituals, many involving animal sacrifices, form an integral part of life on Sumba. There is no more spectacular ritual than the festival of Pasola which takes place over 4 days in February and March each year.
Pasola is a simulated war fought out by competing teams of dozens of horse riders armed with wooden spears representing different villages. The riders have no saddles or stirrups. The spears are not sharpened, but they are certainly potentially lethal. A primary object of the games is to knock ones's opponents off his horse with a spear. The "game" is spectacular. It is very dangerous for the participants and spectators alike. Injuries and death are not unknown.
The full moon determines the timing of the Pasola. The precise date is dependant on the arrival of nyale or beach worms on the beaches in western Sumba in February and Central Sumba in March. The actual date determined by the local shaman a couple of weeks before each Pasola.
The atmosphere was festive, but Pasola is obviusly a major event of spiritual significance in the lives of the people. Men and women were dressed in their finest ikat - the exquisite woven fabric for which Sumba is famous. As the crowd grew, the shaman continued his incantations. Pigs and buffalo were sacrificed. The tension mounted as all present awaited the riders.
Suddenly the masses parted. Traditionally dressed riders and horses in battle regalia forced their way through the people to take up their positions at each end of the Pasola "arena". The battle ground was nothing more than a cleared field little bigger than a football pitch. The shaman and local dignitaries entered the field in procession, made their final intercessions and the war began.
As the conflict commenced, individual warriors rode their horses toward enemy "lines". Some charges ware feints designed to test the defences. Some were to lure enemy riders out into a trap. Some charges were ignore. Other were met with a furious counter attack and fusillade of spears.
The proficiency of the riders was wonderful to watch. Without stirrups, they controlled the horses with exeptional skill. Spears flew in all directions - most were skilfully evaded. Some riders were able to catch spears hurled at yhem in mid air. From time to time a warrior in full flight was struck by a spears. He collapsed from his horse to the ground to wild applause of the crawd. There is no armour or protection. Although some blood was shed by the riders, the fact that no-one was killed or maimed was miraculous.
In mid afternoon, one side was proclaimed the victor, and the Pasola was over.
The whole event leaves one exhausted but exhilareted. It is very rare for such an event to live up to and far exceed one's expectations.
Text By Campbell Bridge